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Into Thin Air-Jon Krakauer
(Page created by Sarah Puckett and Alix Packard)

Summary: The book Into Thin Air originally began as a magazine article. Outside Magazine sent Jon Krakauer, an experienced mountain climber, to write an article about the commercialism surrounding Mount Everest. Krakauer got the magazine to agree to pay for him to attempt to summit the mountain—something he had always dreamed of doing. Originally, Krakauer was supposed to stay at base camp and report from there, but he arranged otherwise, and the magazine agreed to let him summit Everest. Soon after summitting the peak, Krakauer's team met with disaster as four of six teammates pe﻿rished while making their descent in the middle of a snowstorm. After writing the magazine article, Krakauer continued to write about the guilt he felt due to the miscommunication of the survival of one of his friends, Andy Harris. After collaborating with survivors of the tragic 1996 expedition, Krakauer slowly pieced together all the events leading up to and after the snowstorm, and figured out what truly happened on that mountain. (Sarah)

Why You Should Read It: Into Thin Air is a suspenseful, gripping documentation of a tragic expedition up the highest peak in the world, Mount Everest. This book documents the 1996 Everest disaster, narrated by Jon Krakauer. Orginially scheduled to stay at base camp, the avid climber persuaded Outsider magazine to let him summit with the Adventure Consultants, an expe﻿dition group led by Rob Hall. The novel exposes the trials and tribulations, as well as the commercialization of the Everest Expedition. This book will leave you on the edge of your seat, wondering what will happen next! (Sarah)

Criticism: The novel Into Thin Air by Jon Krakauer tells the story of 15 climbers and their personal struggles to reach the top of Mount Everest during the deadly storm in May of 1996. In doing this, Jon Krakauer portrays the moral values of self-reliance and the importance of good judgment. Because of several collaborative human errors within the group, eight mountaineers were killed and many of the few survivors suffered severe frostbite. The best example of a lack of these morals is Beck Weathers who, under the influence of altitude sickness, was left alone on one of the highest peaks of Everest during the blizzard and made the poor decision to remove his gloves eventually leading to the amputation of his right forearm and left hand. Most of the results of this expedition could have easily been avoided if all of the mountaineers had practiced good judgment and had followed their mind over their strive to summit the almighty mountain. (Alix)

==There artifacts are pertaining to the biography of Jon Krakauer, as a person, as well as a climber on Mount Everest in 1996. ==

Jon Krakauer was born in april of 1954, and was raised in Corvallis, Oregon. His father introduced him to moutaineering at the young age of eight. After college, Krakauer was earning his living primarily as a carpenter and commercial salmon fisherman, but he spent most of his free moments in the mountains. In November 1983, he was able to abandon part-time work as a fisherman and a carpenter to become a full-time writer, which was how he landed the expedition opportunity with Outside Magazine. By the time the Everest expeditiopn came around, Krakauer was ﻿a seasoned climber, climbing some of the highest mountains in America, as well as many other significant mountains. Krakauer has authored many other books, including Into the Wild, Into Thin Air, Under the Banner of Heaven, and Where Men Win Glory: The Odyssey of Pat Tillman. (Sarah)

media type="youtube" key="Bgqc2m7aBzs?fs=1" height="385" width="640" "…I braced myself to make one last visit to Beck, whom I assumed had died in the night. I located his tent, which had been blasted flat by the hurricane, and saw that both doors were wide open. When I peered inside, however, I was shocked to discover that Beck was still alive. He was lying on his back across the floor of the collapsed shelter, shivering convulsively. His face was hideously swollen; splotches of deep, ink-black frostbite covered his nose and cheeks. The storm had blown both sleeping bags from his body, leaving him exposed to the subzero wind, and with his frozen hands he’d been powerless to pull the bags back over himself or zip the tent closed. ‘Jesus Fucking Christ!’ he wailed when he saw me, his features twisted into a rictus of agony and desperation. ‘What’s a guy have to do to get a little help around here!’ He’d been screaming for help for two or three hours, but the storm had smothered his cries (320-1)." ~([]) (Sarah)
 * Excerpt: (13:22)** Jon Krauer speaking about when he discovered Beck Weathers in his tent, after he had spent a frozen night outside.

(Alix)

Altitude Sickness (Acute Mountain Sickness)
<span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Causes: <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">At high altutude, you can't get enough oxygen from the air, so your organs cannot function to their full extent. <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Symptoms: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">*In severe cases, symptoms include: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Treatment:
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">﻿Headache
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Loss of appetite
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Nausea/Vomiting
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Feeling weak & lazy
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Insomnia
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Dizziness
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Feeling like you have a hangover
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Confusion
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Ataxia (Loss of balance, cannot walk in a straight line)
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Feeling faint
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Blue or grey lips and/or fingernails
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Retreat to lower altitude
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Oxygen, or special pressure chamber
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Limit activity
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Stay hydrated
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Don't go any higher until symptoms disappear
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Diamox, Procardia, Dexamethasone- Speeds up acclimization

<span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">﻿Frostbite
Causes: <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">The body sends signals to constrict blood vessels in your extremities (toes, fingers, nose, ears, etc.) to send more blood to your vital organs (brain, heart, lungs). Tissues freeze and die when they become exposed to frigid temperatures for an extended period of time. The tissue may not die on contact, but it will continue to deteriorate over time, due to lack of blood. <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">People Most Subceptible: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Symptoms: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">*In severe cases, symptoms include: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Degrees Of Frostbite: <span style="color: #ff0000; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Treatment: <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">(Sarah)
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">People who spend a lot of time outside (homeless, hikers, hunters)
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">People who are under the influence
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Elderly people who are without adequate heating, food, and shelter
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">People who are exhausted or severely dehydrated
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">People who are mentally ill
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Burning
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">numbness
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">tingling
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">itching
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Sensation gradually lost in extremities,
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Waxy, yellow skin
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">No resistance to skin when pressed on
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Blackened or dead skin
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Severe pain as areas are rewarmed
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">﻿First degree: Irritates the skin, skin turns pink
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Second Degree: Blisters on skin, but no major damage
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Third Degree: Involves all layers of skin, permanent damage
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Immediately get the frostbitten person medical help
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Rewarm
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Administer narcotics to help with pain
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Intravenous (IV) fluids to rehydrate
 * <span style="color: #007bff; font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Whirlpool bath to remove excess skin if third degree

** JON KRAKAUER ** ** PERSONAL ITINERARY FOR ADVENTURE CONSULTANTS EVEREST EXPEDITION 1996 **


 * DAY 1: Arrive in Kathmandu after a 34 hour flight from Seattle, Washington **


 * DAY 2-5: Adventure Consultants Everest Expedition members gather and board helicopter heading towards Lukla and explore town of Phakding **


 * DAY 6: Venture through the Namche Bazaar and spend the night in Namche for a night of acclimatization **


 * DAY 7: Arrive in Tengboche and meet with the rimpoche (head lama of Nepal) **


 * DAY 8: Travel on foot and arrive in the Khumbu Glacier **


 * DAY 10: Arrive at Everest Base Camp where you will spend 4 days acclimatizing and accompanying yourself with teammates **


 * DAY 14-16: Prepare climbing equipment and begin climb towards Camp One where you will spend 2 nights **


 * DAY 17: Climb up Western Cwm and stay at Camp Two for 4 days **


 * DAY 18-25; Make passes between Camp One and Camp Two to get used to Everest terrain and acclimatize **


 * DAY 26-27: Arrive at Base Camp Three and stay overnight for final acclimatization period **
 * DAY 28-34: Arrive at Camp Four and begin to acclimatize to new altitude

DAY 35-37: Prepare for summit by climbing on Camp Three and Four terrain; Get used to climbing gear and discuss summit rules and procedures

DAY 38-40: Days of rest in order to preserve energy for final climbing push: the summit!

DAY 41-43: Summit, celebrate, and enjoy one of the last nights on Mount Everest

DAY 44-45: Begin to climb down Everest and stay at Base Camp until departure day

DAY 46: Arrive in Phakding for farewell dinner with expedition, guides, and sherpas

DAY 47: Depart from Kathmandu towards Seattle, Washington **

(Alix)

__**<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Jon Krakauer’s Climbing and Mountaineering Experiences **__

<span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">1974 – 23 years old – Ascended 3 unclimbed peaks in the Arrigetch peaks of Alaska <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">1977- 23 years old – Attempted Devil’s Thumb in Southeast Alaska but did not summit <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">1992 – 38 years old – Summited the Cerro Torre in the Andes of Argentina Patagonia <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">1996 – 42 years old – Mount Everest summit <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">2001 – 27 years old – Summited Vinson, Antarctica <span style="font-family: 'Lucida Sans Unicode','Lucida Grande',sans-serif;">Dates Unkown – Several successful ice climbs throughout Colorado and Canada

(Alix)

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